Windshield Re-Installation – Round Two

Something told me that installing that windshield was just too simple. Of course, it was—just another case of MG trickery, courtesy of modern parts that never quite match the specifications of good old British Leyland.

When I was putting the rubber around the glass, it seemed too simple and, well, loose. It wasn’t the snug fit I was expecting. At the time, I didn’t think much of it. It covered the edges, and I figured that when I clamped the left and right pillars together, it would self-center the glass and jam the rubber into the frame. I thought it did that, until Steve at the Sports Car Factory pointed out a gap right at the edge of the frame (click on the picture to see it in full size). You could actually stick something small through it. How is this even possible? Needless to say, the window leaks water like a proper strainer.

As if on cue, after I took a picture, Martin MacGregor called with some “helpful” advice on installing the rubber to the glass. A day late and a dollar short, but his advice made sense. He explained that the factory making these seals has workers cutting the rubber between 115” and 116”, then super gluing them together. The problem, he said, is that they often cut them too long—longer than 116”—which causes all sorts of problems when installing the windshield.

Martin suggested I cut the rubber at the seam, measure out 115”, and then cut and super glue it back together. It should be a snap fit, which mine definitely was not.

Even with that fix, I fear the windshield still isn’t wide enough to center properly when squeezing the pillars closed. My plan is to put clear silicone inside the pillar frame to build it up a bit on both sides to properly center the glass. This is just a plan; I’ll know more when I remove it for the second time after I get it back from its safety inspection.

Any suggestions would be truly welcomed here…

Spring Surgery: Bidding Farewell to the Clamp Catastrophe

 

The final item on my "Must Do" list was tackled on Sunday morning. My grand plan involved removing the spring and evicting that bracket clamp from the passenger side of the car’s front spring. Frankly, it looked like a cancerous growth that had no business being there. Even my garage agreed it was a disaster waiting to happen and would definitely raise eyebrows during a safety inspection.

Before getting too carried away with the whole spring removal ordeal, I figured I’d try just unscrewing all the bolts first. Maybe, just maybe, the clamp would fall off like a bad toupee. Armed with a socket, a few wrenches, needle-nose vice grips, and a screwdriver that could double as a crowbar, I set to work. It took 30 minutes of creative cursing and some wiggling, but success was mine!

With the wheel already off, I thought, "Why not give the front end a quick once-over?" A bit of grease in all the nipples, a glance here and there, and I discovered the brakes were in pristine condition, sporting new pads and a shiny, turned rotor. Feeling like a mechanical superhero, I decided to repeat the process on the driver's side.

Once completed, I drove the car onto the street and gave it the once-over from the front and back. No sign of a lean or any crookedness—victory! The car looked as straight as a ruler, and I was as proud as a peacock.

Finally, my wife, bless her heart, was kind enough to follow me in the MGB to The Sports Car Factory in my Volt. Picture this: me, beaming in my newly cancer-free car, back-up lights working, new windshield and windshield washers on the ready, and my wife, probably wondering how she got roped into this, trailing behind. We arrived, and I left the car to undergo the Ontario Safety Inspection, plus a thorough check-up for my own peace of mind.

As I returned home driving my Volt, I couldn't help but feel a mix of excitement and anxiety. Would the Master Mechanic of MGs find something I missed? Only time would tell. But for now, I could breathe easy knowing that the clamp, the bane of my spring’s existence, was no more. And so, with a triumphant grin, I walked away, ready for whatever automotive adventures awaited next.

On the way home, I decided to stop in Osgoode and treat my wife to lunch at the Red Dot Café. Chantal, ever the picture of health, ordered a salad with creamed potato soup. I, on the other hand, couldn't resist the Prime Rib Sandwich Dip with Sweet Potato Fries. It was the perfect end to a productive day, filled with good food and the satisfaction of a job well done.

More Pictures for Reference

Windshield Washer ASS-U-ME

This is a story about re-installing the windshield washers and how to NOT assume that things from the past are correct, because you might make an “ass” out of “u” and “me”. This was the case. 

The previous owner removed the windshield washer and I assume it was because it was not working and also that he could not get it to work. But, not only did he remove the windshield washer he also cut the hose right at the firewall between two metal firewalls. The complete assembly was also removed and the previous owner gave it to me with the car. 

So the first thing I did was order the proper size hose at $ 0.80/Foot. I ordered 10 Feet to be safe.

I then sanded the bottle holder and painted it. I scrubbed the bottle with cleaner to get it white again. 

Now, before I go any further, notice the picture of the pump installed on the left side of the holder in the picture. Notice how it is installed vertically? Let that picture burn into your mind.

I re-assembled everything. I could not join the tubing at the firewall, because I just could not get to it, so I pulled it through from underneath the dash and cut off the painted area (the part sticking through the firewall). I was able to feed the tubing through the hole from the engine bay into the under dash. I put a rubber grommet but I have yet being able to install it on the hole. That I will attempt another day. It is just hanging next to the firewall hole at the moment. 

I then ran the tubing over the heater box and through the clamp to the windshield washer pump that I just installed. I connected the tubing and the original electrical wires were still there, so I plugged it in. I then removed the two tiny chrome nozzles on top of the hood and cleaned them out using tools for cleaning carburetors. Tiny metal rods that could fit in the hole and clean out old wax and dirt that had blocked them. 

I got in the car and I pressed the washer and nothing happened. So I removed the pump, disassembled it and used an electrical contact cleaner and some Teflon spray  and I got everything working again. I re-assembled the pump and tried it. It was working but no spray was coming out. I sprayed and sprayed and sprayed some more, but nothing came out. The fact is I sprayed so much without any fluid going through I burnt and destroyed the little rubber impellor inside the pump, as I discovered when I took it apart a second time. 

So I started to search online for a new pump and I found what looked to be a very similar pump at NAPA for $ 20.00. I ordered it and picked it up a few hours later.

I installed the new pump and turned on the car, pushed the sprayer and the pump was worked but nothing came out. This time I resisted the temptation to keep pushing and burn yet a second rubber propeller.

I sat in the car for a bit and began to think. I remember seeing that tiny 1" x 1" folder paper behind the pump in the packaging. You know the one, where you need to unfold it multiple times to see the big picture. I got out of my car and retrieved it, quickly unfolded and unfolded some more until there it was. To my shock, the mounting height and positional direction of the pump depends on whether your bottle feeds from the bottom or by a tubing on top, like in the MGB. The directions showed the pump mounted horizontally rather than vertically for my bottle type. Don't ask my why. I assume it has to do with something Sir Isaac Newton and an apple. So I removed the pump and used one of the two bolts to mount it horizontally. I got in the car and voila, it worked like a charm.

Hence the title of this blog post. I assumed it was mounted correctly because that is how it was. I now know that if I had mounted the pump that I repaired horizontally, it too would have worked fine. If ever you need to re-install a windshield washer pump, read the instructions or remember this post.

Other Pictures for Reference

As Received

Tubing Cut

 

Reconnected tubing under the dash

MGB Windscreen Installation - Part 2

 

The task of installing the windscreen, while often dreaded, turned out to be more straightforward than expected. Here's a detailed walkthrough of my experience.

First, I grabbed the windscreen assembly and carefully slid the two rails into their slots on each side. I jiggled it a bit to align the front two bolts in the middle of the dash. Once they were aligned, I inserted and screwed in these two bolts, leaving about 1/4" of play.

Next, using the same plastic flat tool from Part 1, I slid the rubber seal into the correct position, flipping it over to seat on the car. With a flashlight inside the car, I inspected the holes to determine the best way to line them up. My plan was to attach the lower bolts on each side.

This part proved challenging. Instead of using a jig as suggested in various online guides, I asked a neighbor who was walking his dog to help. He pushed down on the driver’s side while I guided the direction with my left hand and screwed in the bolt with my right hand. After three attempts, I managed to screw in the first bolt. We then repeated this process on the passenger side, after which my neighbor continued on his walk. I did not tighten the bolts.

With the bottom two bolts in place, the windscreen moved like a lever. You can push or pull it to line up the holes. Surprisingly, I was able to screw in the top bolts easily past the dash edge, allowing me to continue with a wrench from the side. This was a part I had feared the most, but it turned out to be the easiest. Please note that in Part 1, I had put these bolts in many times and I also used a dab of anti-seize on the bolts. 

If you get out of the MGB and close the door, you'll notice some play backward and forward. Align the windscreen with the door to ensure they mate perfectly, then tighten the bottom bolts. Do not overtighten. Repeat this process on the other side. Once these bolts are secure, tighten the top two bolts.

Finally, I inspected my seal, which looked fabulous! Below are some reference pictures, especially showing the way the rubber seal sits with the rubber foot and the location of these bolts. Feel free to click on any image to view it full size. The last thing to do is seal the corner areas using silicone as in John Twist's Video: 213 MG Tech | Sealing MG Windscreens.

   

 

MGB Windscreen Installation Part 1

Introduction:

Instead of creating a video for this installation, I've chosen to discuss some of the challenges I faced and share my insights on potential solutions. While there are numerous excellent installation videos available, some of which I'll highlight below. I took a slightly different approach. I'll outline these unique steps with accompanying pictures, aiming to simplify your process and ensure a clean, straightforward, and frustration-free installation.

Noteworthy Installation Videos:

• MGB Roadster Windscreen Frame Removal and Glass Fitting: An in depth guide 
• by David Russell-Wilks
• MGB Front Windscreen Screen Replacement Re-Fit 4000 Subscriber Special 
• by David Russell-Wilks
• 213 MG Tech | Sealing MG Windscreens
  
• By John Twist at University Motors

The Windshield Adventure:

Removing the windshield was mostly straightforward, except for dealing with the top two bolts. These bolts, designed by the engineers at British Leyland, are placed awkwardly against the edge of the metal dash. To remove them, I had to use a 9/16" wrench between the dash and the sidewall. However, as the bolt reaches a certain point, the wrench becomes unusable because the bolt head aligns parallel with the steel dash. At this stage, you need to use your fingers underneath the dash, combined with some careful wrench maneuvers, to slowly turn the bolt until it comes off. This wasn't particularly difficult but did add about 15 minutes to the removal process. I can see it may be challenging to re-assemble later on (see Part 2). The videos mentioned above cover this process well.

Once the windshield was off the car, I had no trouble removing any of the screws from the windshield frame, except for one missing screw and one stripped thread on the frame bracket. Rust can easily form on these brackets, especially if there has been water leakage over the years. Here’s my recommended preparation for this scenario:

First, if the screws are rusted or difficult to remove, I suggest using an Impact Driver, as shown in the picture, to loosen them and avoid stripping, which would require drilling them out. Fortunately, I didn't need mine as the screws came out easily, but this isn’t always the case. Having extra screws on hand, both the small and tall ones is advisable. They are inexpensive and can be invaluable when needed.

Once all the screws are removed, you can gently pull the sides apart. I had to start mine by using a flathead screwdriver, inserted between the top and side frames, and gently turning it to apply pressure and separate the side frames from the top and bottom frames. Once started, I could wiggle them apart.

At this point, it's essential to clean the insides of the frames thoroughly. The bottom corner brackets and top brackets may be very rusty, the threads might be damaged from previous installations, or they might be in perfect condition. Mine were not. Luckily, I was able to get two good top brackets from The Sports Car Factory nearby to replace mine. Additionally, I wasn't completely satisfied with the bottom corner brackets' threads, so I recommend having a set of these on hand along with new screws. Ordering a few extra screws is also a good idea, just in case.

Parts Order List from Moss Motors:

1. 408-075 and 408-085 - Left and Right Top Rail to Pillar Brackets
2. 408-050 Left and Right pillar to Bottom Rail Elbow brackets
3. 4 x 408-055 Bracket to Pillar screws
4. 8 x 408-056 Short Screws
5. 6 x 408-057 Long Screws
6. 282-420 Windshield Glass Rubber
7. I Used this Windshield: 458-815 Tinted Original Style Windshield

I took the time to thoroughly clean both the insides and outsides of the frames. My frames had clear silicone, some type of putty, and rust on the brackets. I started by using a flathead screwdriver to scrape off the silicone and putty, then used a Dremel to further clean the tracks and remove as much rust as possible. Below, you can see some before and after pictures showcasing the results.

Before

After

 

Must Do - MGB Brake Lights Working

The work continues under the strict rule that I must resist the temptation to immerse myself in MG mechanical bliss before 2:00 PM. This time, I am committed to staying focused on my work until my self-imposed cutoff time of 2:00 PM in the afternoon.

So, the "Must Do" tasks are well underway. I have fixed the backup lights, which involved two minor issues and one significant challenge.

The reasons the backup lights were not working were straightforward: the passenger-side bulb was missing entirely, and the driver's-side bulb was unplugged. Plugging in the driver's-side bulb solved half the problem, making the backup lights work. However, finding a replacement bulb for the passenger side proved more difficult than expected.

I visited several stores—Napa, Bensons, Canadian Tire, and even the Sports Car Factory—searching for the specific longer mini-light bulb, but to no avail. It seems most manufacturers have discontinued these bulbs. I did find a 578 LED bulb at Canadian Tire but wanted to stick with the original. When I returned to buy the LED 578, it was sold out.

On my way home, I remembered a lesser-known auto parts store in town. To my surprise, they had a set of the bulbs I needed. I ordered an additional set from their warehouse. To my delight, the brake lights now work perfectly.

That is one of four issues completed. The other three are in progress. Stay Tuned!

The MGB Rabbit Hole Chronicles: A Cautionary Tale

 

Perilous Hole

Once upon a time, I embarked on a grand quest to perfect a British classic: the illustrious MGB. Armed with wrenches, dreams, and an uncanny ability to find every possible upgrade, I dove headfirst into a rabbit hole so deep it made Alice’s Wonderland look like a kiddie pool. My noble endeavor resulted in over $15,000 in bills for parts and services, even though I played mechanic most of the time. Astonishingly, when I finally parted ways with my beloved MGB, I managed to sell it for exactly what I had invested, purchase price included. A rare feat indeed, as most folks in this hobby end up losing their shirts, and possibly their sanity.

Now, my dear friends and family, knowing my penchant for vehicular perfection, fear that I will once again succumb to the siren song of the MGB Rabbit Hole. They envision me starting with a tentative toe dip, only to end up swan-diving into the depths of obsession.

So here’s my public declaration: this blog is my pledge to avoid the rabbit hole this time around. I vow to keep my new MGB in good, running order by begging, borrowing, or scavenging from MGB graveyards of yore, without opening any new accounts at Moss Motors or similar purveyors of temptation.

Friends, if you catch even a glimpse of my toe heading toward that perilous hole, please, for the love of sanity, intervene. Copy this post and send it right back to me as a stern reminder of what this project is truly about. Together, we can keep me on the straight and narrow—far from the clutches of the MGB Rabbit Hole!

The MUST Do - Windshield

 

A Lucky Day with the Windshield

There she is, naked! No windshield. Removing and reinstalling the windshield seemed like a daunting task. I had heard horror stories about the screws around the frame often being rusted, leading to major trouble like tapping and so forth.

But today was my lucky day. I disassembled two frames: one with a good frame but broken windshield glass, and another with a bad frame but good windshield glass. During disassembly, I discovered why the windshield broke on the good frame. There are two sizes of screws, with the top frame screws being longer than those on the bottom. One of the bottom screws was a long screw, likely applying constant pressure directly through the rubber onto the edge of the glass. Additionally, there was a missing screw that holds the bracket on the bottom, which caused added vibration, especially over bumps.

The screws were a mixed bunch: Phillips, hex, and flat head. Initially, I thought I could reuse the rubber around the windshield, but I decided to sell this windshield since it has no markings, and I don't want to go through this again. Instead, I ordered a new one from Laval, QC, complete with the gasket and some other parts necessary to pass the safety inspection.

The old windshield came off easily, but I can imagine there will be some time-consuming positioning and wiggling when I reassemble it with the new glass.

Below are some photos.

The Must Do, Wanna Do, and May Do Lists

After a quick look at the car there are a few things that must be done to pass a safety and then a few other things that are required to enjoy a trip and lastly some odds and ends to do for esthetics.

The Must Do

The must-do list is all about passing a safety test. In the Ontario Safety Inspection, the car must have functional windshield washers, sun visors, and a well-maintained suspension.

The previous owner installed a clamping device on the passenger front spring to level the car after fitting new springs. I'm almost certain this modification will not pass the safety test, and I'm confident it has no place on an MGB. Therefore, I will surgically remove this foreign body.

This is the Foreign Body to be Surgically Removed

Continuing with the "Must-Do" list is the windshield and frame. The previous owner installed a new windshield glass years ago, but it broke shortly after installation. Frustrated, he bought a complete frame with a windshield from a club member in Ottawa and installed it. However, whoever assembled that frame did not rivet in the holders for the sun visors. Guess what? Sun visors are a safety requirement to pass the inspection. Fortunately, the previous owner had the original windshield frame and delivered it to me this morning.

Proper (Below) Versus Improper (On Car)

The last "Must-Do" chore is to reinstall the windshield washer system. While the windshield wipers work, the washers do not. The previous owner gave me the windshield washer reservoir and pump, which were stored in the trunk. Therefore, I need to install them and hope that the wiring and tubing under the dash are still intact and that the pump is functional. If this is the case, it should be an easy fix.

The final "Must Do" list will really only be completed after the Ontario Inspection is complete.

The Wanna Do List

In the wanna do list are some slight improvements. First and foremost on this list is the carburetor. The engine was rebuilt and they choose to use the weber carburetor system to avoid tuning two SU carburetors. However, after driving the car, I really prefer the dual SU carburetors over the Weber system that is on the car.  An acquaintance has a set of SU carburetors rebuilt with all the necessary accessories such as the gaskets, intake manifold, cables and more. He will be shipping them to me shortly.  I will need to re-direct the heating antifreeze tubing to go next to the valve cover and install the intake manifold, carburetors and cables. This should be a simple job, but as a betting man, I will bet it it is not.

The Weber that's Got to Go

Next on the "Wanna" list is to add the missing insulation on the underside of the bonnet. This reduces engine noise in the cockpit and prevents excessive heat from affecting the bonnet paint job.

The Naked Bonnet

The May Do List

This category includes a few things. Mainly to enhance my driving pleasure.

1. Complete detailing of the paint.
2. Maybe Paint the Hard Top Nice.
3. Rewire the electric fan to get power from an after ignition is on power source because currently it is powered directly, so if you forget to turn the fan off, it will drain the battery. May even review the complete fan set-up.
4. Flush the radiator and check thermostat.