A Busy Time in the Garage: Rebound Strap, Convertible Top Seal, Bonnet Insulation, and Steering U-Joint Coupling Assembly

 

I apologize to any followers who may have thought I had gone missing, but it’s quite the contrary. I have been staying true to my plan and working in the office until 3:00, then off to the garage to tinker—or in this case, a tad more than tinkering. Instead of making multiple posts, one for each item, I will just spit it out in one long breath.

Changed the Rebound Strap to Nylon

This was really uneventful and not worth taking a picture. The only comment I have is that there are two types of straps: rubber and nylon. The rubber one that was on the car was broken. It was not that old, but I remember changing the straps on the old MGB only to watch them slowly stretch and break while the car was on a lift. This leaves all the weight of the differential on the lever shock arms, which is not good. Apparently, today’s rubber made for MGs is nowhere near as good as the original rubber back in the day.

Changed the Convertible Top’s Seal

As you can see in the pictures, the previous owner used some sort of rubber pad and tape to try and fend off leakage when, in fact, the complete rubber seal was dried out and finished. It was only a $45.00 CDN part and took a few moments to replace.

Added Bonnet Insulation Pads

The inside of the bonnet was naked. I see many MGBs with no insulation, but the insulation on the inside of an MGB's bonnet (hood) serves several important functions:

1. Heat Management: The insulation helps to manage and reduce the amount of heat that escapes from the engine compartment to the exterior surfaces of the bonnet. This helps protect the paint and other exterior components from heat damage.
2. Noise Reduction: The insulation acts as a sound barrier, reducing the noise generated by the engine and other mechanical components. This helps create a quieter driving experience inside the cabin.
3. Protection: It provides an additional layer of protection for the bonnet, shielding it from the heat and vibration generated by the engine. This can help prolong the life of the bonnet and maintain its structural integrity.
4. Fire Safety: In the event of a fire, some types of bonnet insulation can act as a fire retardant, helping to slow the spread of flames and giving occupants more time to escape.

Overall, the insulation contributes to a more comfortable, durable, and safe driving experience.

To start the job, I had to remove the bonnet. Before removing the bonnet, I used a small paintbrush to put in white paint locator markers through the two locating holes. I also marked the outline of the bonnet’s bracket. This is an important step to ensure that when the bonnet is re-installed, it mates with the car as it was.

I placed the bonnet on a table with foam and then a blanket to protect it. This would be my work area. The surface where the insulation pads were to be installed was full of old glue. Therefore, I had to remove it all before starting the insulation.

My first attempt was with Goo-Be-Gone and some elbow grease. This pass removed quite a bit but not the stubborn traces of the old glue. So my second pass was with 99% isopropyl alcohol and lots of elbow grease to remove all of the previous glue. I then cleaned the rest of the bonnet’s underside with a Honda clean and polish spray.

My final preparation was using Dupli-Color Multipurpose Foaming Prep Cleaner. This leaves the surface totally free from dirt, oils, and contaminants, and when wiped clean with a cloth, the surface is totally dry and ready for painting or, in this case, gluing.

For the glue, there are many choices and recommendations, but after reviewing them all, I decided to go with 3M Super Trim Adhesive because it is super strong under heat. After completion, I want to mention that this may not have been the best choice. I believe this glue will hold well, but once tacky, there is very little wiggle room when you place the insulation pad onto the bonnet to position it properly. So, you must get it right or almost right the first time, or you will need to start all over again.

Before gluing, I taped around the pad area to avoid glue spray where I did not want it. Although, after spraying, this step was not necessary because the spray nozzle was extremely accurate, and I could spray right to the edge without overspray. Also, the tape got in the way of the installation, and I had to rip it off, losing time for positioning before the glue stuck solid.

I used a plastic edger to get the pad under the edges. However, I should mention that the pad is not cut to the exact fit. I noticed this when doing a trial run, and it is even worse with the glue I chose to use because there was not enough time to slide much of the edges under on one side.

This resulted in two small gaps on the edge. I could use an edger, such as high-temp silicone, to finish it off perfectly for the eye candy, but its functionality should be perfect.

 

Replaced the Steering U-Joint Coupling Assembly

To be quite honest, I was on the fence about whether I should take this to the Sports Car Factory or struggle with it myself. I have heard nightmares about getting this off after 42 years on and most likely seized.

So, I borrowed a slide hammer and got the torch ready. But given the location of the u-joint right next to my fuel line, this method left no room for error, so it was my least preferred method.

First, I removed the four bolts holding the steering rack to create slack, allowing me to pull the u-joint off the pinion. This slack is required to maneuver the u-joint. Then, I started prying apart each side of the u-joint the best I could. It's easier with a buddy holding the steering wheel to prevent the u-joint from turning, but I managed with a makeshift solution that I was too embarrassed to photograph. It worked, though.

Using a punch and hammer, I began to punch the u-joint down from the steering column by the firewall. After a few good hits, it started to move, and eventually, it came off. Getting it off the pinion required more prying, WD-40, and well-placed hits until it slowly came off.

When installing the new one, I aligned it onto the pinion and the steering column to ensure the bolt positions matched the u-joint. Getting the steering column on was straightforward, and I secured the bolt without issue. However, getting the pinion on required careful hammering on the bottom of the rack where the end of the pinion sits. I used a big hammer and worked millimeter by millimeter, checking the bolt position frequently to avoid overshooting.

Finally, I torqued the bolts and reinstalled the steering rack. Needless to say, I didn't need the torch or the slide hammer after all.

Now, back to the windshield adventure...