A Busy Time in the Garage: Rebound Strap, Convertible Top Seal, Bonnet Insulation, and Steering U-Joint Coupling Assembly

 

I apologize to any followers who may have thought I had gone missing, but it’s quite the contrary. I have been staying true to my plan and working in the office until 3:00, then off to the garage to tinker—or in this case, a tad more than tinkering. Instead of making multiple posts, one for each item, I will just spit it out in one long breath.

Changed the Rebound Strap to Nylon

This was really uneventful and not worth taking a picture. The only comment I have is that there are two types of straps: rubber and nylon. The rubber one that was on the car was broken. It was not that old, but I remember changing the straps on the old MGB only to watch them slowly stretch and break while the car was on a lift. This leaves all the weight of the differential on the lever shock arms, which is not good. Apparently, today’s rubber made for MGs is nowhere near as good as the original rubber back in the day.

Changed the Convertible Top’s Seal

As you can see in the pictures, the previous owner used some sort of rubber pad and tape to try and fend off leakage when, in fact, the complete rubber seal was dried out and finished. It was only a $45.00 CDN part and took a few moments to replace.

Added Bonnet Insulation Pads

The inside of the bonnet was naked. I see many MGBs with no insulation, but the insulation on the inside of an MGB's bonnet (hood) serves several important functions:

1. Heat Management: The insulation helps to manage and reduce the amount of heat that escapes from the engine compartment to the exterior surfaces of the bonnet. This helps protect the paint and other exterior components from heat damage.
2. Noise Reduction: The insulation acts as a sound barrier, reducing the noise generated by the engine and other mechanical components. This helps create a quieter driving experience inside the cabin.
3. Protection: It provides an additional layer of protection for the bonnet, shielding it from the heat and vibration generated by the engine. This can help prolong the life of the bonnet and maintain its structural integrity.
4. Fire Safety: In the event of a fire, some types of bonnet insulation can act as a fire retardant, helping to slow the spread of flames and giving occupants more time to escape.

Overall, the insulation contributes to a more comfortable, durable, and safe driving experience.

To start the job, I had to remove the bonnet. Before removing the bonnet, I used a small paintbrush to put in white paint locator markers through the two locating holes. I also marked the outline of the bonnet’s bracket. This is an important step to ensure that when the bonnet is re-installed, it mates with the car as it was.

I placed the bonnet on a table with foam and then a blanket to protect it. This would be my work area. The surface where the insulation pads were to be installed was full of old glue. Therefore, I had to remove it all before starting the insulation.

My first attempt was with Goo-Be-Gone and some elbow grease. This pass removed quite a bit but not the stubborn traces of the old glue. So my second pass was with 99% isopropyl alcohol and lots of elbow grease to remove all of the previous glue. I then cleaned the rest of the bonnet’s underside with a Honda clean and polish spray.

My final preparation was using Dupli-Color Multipurpose Foaming Prep Cleaner. This leaves the surface totally free from dirt, oils, and contaminants, and when wiped clean with a cloth, the surface is totally dry and ready for painting or, in this case, gluing.

For the glue, there are many choices and recommendations, but after reviewing them all, I decided to go with 3M Super Trim Adhesive because it is super strong under heat. After completion, I want to mention that this may not have been the best choice. I believe this glue will hold well, but once tacky, there is very little wiggle room when you place the insulation pad onto the bonnet to position it properly. So, you must get it right or almost right the first time, or you will need to start all over again.

Before gluing, I taped around the pad area to avoid glue spray where I did not want it. Although, after spraying, this step was not necessary because the spray nozzle was extremely accurate, and I could spray right to the edge without overspray. Also, the tape got in the way of the installation, and I had to rip it off, losing time for positioning before the glue stuck solid.

I used a plastic edger to get the pad under the edges. However, I should mention that the pad is not cut to the exact fit. I noticed this when doing a trial run, and it is even worse with the glue I chose to use because there was not enough time to slide much of the edges under on one side.

This resulted in two small gaps on the edge. I could use an edger, such as high-temp silicone, to finish it off perfectly for the eye candy, but its functionality should be perfect.

 

Replaced the Steering U-Joint Coupling Assembly

To be quite honest, I was on the fence about whether I should take this to the Sports Car Factory or struggle with it myself. I have heard nightmares about getting this off after 42 years on and most likely seized.

So, I borrowed a slide hammer and got the torch ready. But given the location of the u-joint right next to my fuel line, this method left no room for error, so it was my least preferred method.

First, I removed the four bolts holding the steering rack to create slack, allowing me to pull the u-joint off the pinion. This slack is required to maneuver the u-joint. Then, I started prying apart each side of the u-joint the best I could. It's easier with a buddy holding the steering wheel to prevent the u-joint from turning, but I managed with a makeshift solution that I was too embarrassed to photograph. It worked, though.

Using a punch and hammer, I began to punch the u-joint down from the steering column by the firewall. After a few good hits, it started to move, and eventually, it came off. Getting it off the pinion required more prying, WD-40, and well-placed hits until it slowly came off.

When installing the new one, I aligned it onto the pinion and the steering column to ensure the bolt positions matched the u-joint. Getting the steering column on was straightforward, and I secured the bolt without issue. However, getting the pinion on required careful hammering on the bottom of the rack where the end of the pinion sits. I used a big hammer and worked millimeter by millimeter, checking the bolt position frequently to avoid overshooting.

Finally, I torqued the bolts and reinstalled the steering rack. Needless to say, I didn't need the torch or the slide hammer after all.

Now, back to the windshield adventure...

The Essential Safety Inspection: Uncovering Hidden Dangers in My MGB

The Safety Inspection

When I bought the MGB, I was told it would have no issues passing a safety inspection. This statement is probably true, depending on who performs the inspection and what one’s expectations are. Many people want a safety inspection solely to satisfy the Motor Bureau’s requirements before issuing a license. I am certain that many garages view the inspection this way, ensuring the basics are in order and issuing the certificate for licensing purposes.

However, I was more interested in a safety inspection that would actually let me know if I am safe driving this MGB. Of course, I also needed it for the licensing bureau to license the MGB for the road. That is why I took the MGB to a garage specializing in British classic cars for the inspection. After reading this post, I think you will agree that it was well worth it and that there were many extremely concerning issues that most likely would not have been reported by your average garage that knows very little about MGBs. Some of these, you may want to inspect on your MGB.

Fuel Line

The fuel line hose and vacuum hose were resting on top of the header. One hose was half burnt through. If one were to take the car on a long drive in the hot summer, it would only be a matter of time before the hose melted through entirely, pumping gasoline onto the headers and igniting a fire, which would be continually fed by gasoline from the fuel pump. At speed, the fire would certainly enter the cockpit. I'm not confident that most garages would even pick up on this. The mechanic replaced the burnt hoses and re-routed them safely, away from heat sources.

Wiring

The mechanic noticed a loose fuse in the main fuse box. He cleaned the contacts and put the fuse in. When he did that, the car stayed on even when the key was removed from the ignition. Further investigation revealed that the input wiring on the main fuse box in the engine compartment was all wrong. The wires were mixed up on the input, and there should have been a green wire coming out. The green wire is the power wire. Someone had spliced in a joiner to add a white wire to the green power wire, giving live power to ALL the green wires instead of going through the fuse. Therefore, ALL the green circuits—wipers, fans, dash, and more—were being fed by the added white wire, bypassing the fuse. This was a severe fire hazard. It was corrected, and the white wire was removed.

Castle Nut and Main Swivel Axle

On one side of the suspension, it appears that the previous owner broke or lost the original castle nut when installing the lower control arm and used an incorrect replacement. The replacement nut was not the correct size, so they were unable to get the proper size cotter pin through it. Therefore, they used a tiny wire, which is not sufficient to hold the suspension on. Through hard turns or high-speed driving, that side of the suspension could break loose, causing an accident.

Prop Rod on the Hood

The hood must have been removed during engine work. When re-installing it, the prop rod (the bar that supports the hood) was incorrectly installed. It was installed behind instead of in front of the bracket, causing the prop rod to hit the fuse box every time the hood was closed. This would result in knocking the fuse box cover off, and if closed as I did in my garage, it would result in breaking the fuse. This is a safety issue, and it was repaired.

Steering Rack

The steering rack had way too much play, which I noticed when driving it home. You could turn the wheel left and right without any steering effect until you reached almost twenty degrees. They had to reduce the shims in the steering rack.

Brakes

The brakes were inspected thoroughly and found to be new.

Lights, Horn and Body

All the lights and body parts were in order.

Tires

The tires are marked “1509,” meaning they were manufactured in the 15th week of 2009. That makes these tires 15 years old. Although safety inspections only measure tire condition and tread depth, all tire manufacturers recommend changing tires after six years due to rubber degradation over time, which could be dangerous at highway speeds or during hard cornering. I could live with good condition tires that are 7-10 years old, but 15 years is too much. I have ordered new tires and expect them this week. See my post on tires for more details. You can see the many and severe cracks in the picture below. 

Rebound Strap

The rebound strap on the passenger side was broken in two. A new one was needed.

Battery Hold Down

There was no battery hold-down strap or block to stop the battery from jumping up and down over bumps. This could cause the positive terminal to hit the metal of the car and therefore hit negative, causing a huge short and potential fire. There is no bigger short than one at the battery itself. This small issue was a major safety concern and was addressed.

Overdrive Switch and Huge Hole in the Body

This is one item I am certain no regular garage would have found, and it led to an astounding discovery. When testing the overdrive, the mechanic could hear the click when it engaged. He went through the gears, clicking on the overdrive, and heard it click in all gears, including reverse. Therefore, if you turned on the overdrive on the stick shift, it would stay on in ALL gears, instead of just fourth gear. If one were to forget to turn off the overdrive (which I have been known to do on past MGs) and then put the car into reverse, the overdrive clutch would explode and destroy the overdrive system completely. You may want to check your overdrive to ensure that the switch is working properly. Furthermore, when they attempted to reach the switch, which is far up on the top side of the transmission, they discovered a huge

hole had been carved out from the inside of the car in the metal of the transmission tunnel and then taped up under the carpet. The hole was not round or square, just hacked-out metal. This was covered with black tape. When examining the switch, it was clearly broken and missing the spring assembly. The mechanic  put in a new switch, made a proper round hole, and a proper cover lid for the hole.

Conclusion

Obviously, there are all types of mechanics, customers, and budgets. Passing a safety check does not always mean the car is safe to drive, especially when talking classic cars. My next job is to check and probably re-torque all the suspension and brakes to ensure that these bolts meet their required torque values.

My advice: if you own an MGB and rely on local garages to do the work, or you do the work yourself but are not totally confident in your skill level, why not find an experienced MG mechanic and have your car inspected for safety—not just for a safety certificate but a real, thorough safety inspection and re-torque? These are old cars with much history, and many sins of the past could be lurking in your MGB.

The Aging of Tires: A Comprehensive Guide

When I purchased the car, the seller assured me the tires had very little mileage and were in good condition. By "good condition," he meant the tires hadn't been driven much in the past 15 years. On the way home, I came to a stop and needed to make a quick left turn into traffic. To my surprise, the back end slid out easily. Later, during an inspection, I discovered the tires were manufactured in 2009. This explained the unexpected back end slide—the rubber had become hard and brittle over time, offering little grip when it was needed most. This experience highlighted the importance of understanding tire aging and knowing when to replace tires, regardless of tread depth. Let's dive into the crucial factors that determine when tires should be replaced to ensure safety and performance on the road.

The Aging of Tires: A Comprehensive Guide

Tires are a crucial component of any vehicle, providing the necessary traction, stability, and control needed for safe driving. However, like any other material, tires deteriorate over time, whether they are used extensively or sparingly. Understanding the aging process of tires, the impact on their performance, and knowing when to replace them is vital for ensuring safety on the road. This article delves into the factors affecting tire aging, the differences in performance between new and old tires, and provides a definitive guideline on tire replacement.

The Aging Process of Tires

Chemical Changes

Tires are primarily made from rubber compounds that degrade over time due to various factors. One of the main causes of tire aging is the oxidation process. As tires are exposed to oxygen, the rubber compounds break down, leading to a loss of elasticity and flexibility. This process, known as oxidation, is inevitable and occurs regardless of whether the tires are being used or stored.

Environmental Factors

Environmental conditions significantly impact tire aging. UV radiation from the sun, ozone exposure, temperature fluctuations, and humidity all contribute to the degradation of tire rubber. Tires stored in harsh conditions, such as direct sunlight or extreme temperatures, will age faster than those stored in more controlled environments.

Low Mileage vs. High Mileage

• Low Mileage Tires: Tires that are rarely used, such as those on a vintage car or a seldom-driven vehicle, still undergo the aging process. The rubber can harden and become brittle over time, even if the tread appears to be in good condition.
• High Mileage Tires: Tires that are frequently used experience more wear and tear. While the tread may wear down more quickly, the rubber may retain more elasticity compared to low mileage tires due to the regular flexing and heating cycles they undergo.

Handling and Performance Over Time

Here's a chart showing the aging of tire rubber over time, from 1 to 20 years. The elasticity of the rubber decreases exponentially, illustrating how the rubber hardens and becomes less flexible as the years pass.

New Tires

New tires provide optimal handling, traction, and braking performance. The rubber is fresh and pliable, allowing for maximum grip on the road. The tread is designed to channel water away efficiently, reducing the risk of hydroplaning.

5-Year-Old Tires

After five years, tires begin to show signs of aging. While they may still have sufficient tread depth, the rubber starts to harden. This can lead to reduced traction, especially in wet conditions. Handling and braking performance may also decline.

10-Year-Old Tires

At the 10-year mark, tires are considered old, even if they have been minimally used. The rubber will have significantly hardened, leading to a noticeable decrease in performance. The risk of tire failure increases, and the ride may become less comfortable.

15-Year-Old Tires

Tires this old are well past their prime. The rubber is likely to be extremely brittle, and the risk of sidewall cracks and blowouts is high. Handling and traction are severely compromised, making these tires unsafe for use.

20-Year-Old Tires

Using tires that are 20 years old is highly discouraged. The rubber will have degraded to a point where it is no longer safe to drive on. Even if the tread appears intact, the structural integrity of the tire is compromised.

When to Replace Tires

Tread Wear

While tread wear is an important factor in determining tire replacement, it should not be the sole criterion. The legal tread depth limit in most regions is 2/32 inches, but it's advisable to replace tires when the tread depth reaches 4/32 inches to maintain optimal performance.

Age

Regardless of tread wear, tires should be replaced after a certain number of years. Most tire manufacturers and safety organizations recommend replacing tires every six to ten years, even if they appear to be in good condition. The exact timeframe can vary based on factors such as environmental exposure and usage patterns.

Signs of Aging

• Cracks: Visible cracks in the sidewalls or tread are a clear indication of aging and should prompt immediate replacement.
• Vibration: Increased vibration while driving can signal internal damage or uneven wear, suggesting the need for new tires.
• Brittleness: If the rubber feels hard and brittle, it's a sign that the tire has aged and should be replaced.

See the cracks on these 15-year old tires by Michelin:

How to Tell the Age of a Tire

Determining the age of a tire is straightforward and can be done by examining the tire's sidewall for the DOT (Department of Transportation) code. This code contains important information about the tire, including its manufacturing date. The DOT code is typically a combination of letters and numbers that ends with a four-digit number. The last four digits indicate the week and year the tire was produced.

For example, if the DOT code ends with "2318," it means the tire was manufactured in the 23rd week of 2018. It's essential to check this code, especially when purchasing used tires or vehicles, to ensure the tires are not too old. Tires older than six to ten years, even with good tread depth, should be considered for replacement to maintain safety and performance on the road. Regularly inspecting your tires and being aware of their age can help prevent potential issues related to tire aging and ensure a smoother, safer driving experience.

Conclusion

Tires are a critical safety component that should not be neglected. While low mileage may preserve tread depth, it does not prevent the inevitable chemical and environmental aging process. High mileage tires, although more frequently worn, may retain some flexibility due to regular use but still require timely replacement.

For optimal safety and performance, it is recommended to replace tires every six to ten years, regardless of tread wear. Regular inspections for signs of aging, such as cracks and brittleness, should be conducted to ensure tires remain in a safe condition. By adhering to these guidelines, drivers can maintain the handling and safety of their vehicles, ensuring a smoother and more secure driving experience.

Defeated by the Windshield: A Tale of Triumph and Tragedy

Just when I thought I had conquered the windshield problem, it seems there may be another issue lurking beneath the surface. In either case, I hereby throw my arms up in dramatic defeat.

The initial problem of the windshield not fitting the frame, I believe, was rooted in the rubber supplied by Moss. The new rubber was more like soft foam than actual rubber. Fortunately, I had the old rubber from the previous cracked windshield, courtesy of the former owner. The difference between them was stark. The new Moss rubber (foam) could be flattened with two fingers, explaining the gap between the frame and glass. When squeezing one side, the rubber compressed too much, allowing it to fit into the frame rail more than it should, preventing the glass from properly seating on the opposite rail. As you can see in the attached picture, the new Moss rubber did not snap-fit with the glass but was excessively loose.

Take a look at this video comparison of the two rubbers.

The windshield eventually fit snugly, and I experienced the expected difficulty squeezing the side pillars together to align the screws, unlike the initial, too-easy attempt.

Installing the windshield onto the car went as anticipated. Remember, tighten the top two bolts on the dash, leaving some play. Then insert the two bottom bolts on each side of the windshield, followed by the top ones. Align the windshield at the proper angle for the doors to fit correctly, and then tighten everything down.

Next, I applied silicone sealant. I used clear marine silicone sealant by GE for the rubber where it compresses onto the car, following John Twist's video. For the pillars, I used black silicone adhesive sealant. Check out the picture below.

I let it sit overnight and then performed a rain test with a hose the following day. Success! It leaked from the soft-top’s rubber seal but not from the windshield.

Feeling triumphant, I decided to take the MGB to the bank to deposit a check. It was a scorching 33 degrees Celsius (91.4°F) that day. When I returned to the car after leaving the bank, I noticed something on the windshield. Initially, I thought it was dirt, but upon closer inspection, my heart plummeted.

The Windshield Had CRACKED!

I do not have any words to describe my disappointment after removing the windshield twice, sealing the windshield twice, cleaning the sealant twice and after spending $ 400.00 for the Moss Tinted Original Windshield including oversize delivery fees plus the rubber.

I immediately sat in the car and did about four sessions of box-breathing then drove the car home and put her into the garage to deal with another day.

If you recall from part one of the windshield saga, this frame was originally off the car because the previous owner installed a windshield that subsequently cracked. He then bought an older windshield with glass and installed it. Interestingly, he had also purchased Moss glass, which cracked in the exact same spot. It was an identical crack. Now, I suspect it may be a frame issue. If that's the case, I have no idea how to fix it, and quite frankly, I no longer have the energy or interest to tackle a windshield replacement for the third time.

My plan now is to bring the car and the older windshield glass I kept to a professional and have them install it while thoroughly investigating the issue. This means spending more money, which might seem like going down the rabbit hole?

Should I start a go fund me plan? LOL

Windshield Re-Installation – Round Two

Something told me that installing that windshield was just too simple. Of course, it was—just another case of MG trickery, courtesy of modern parts that never quite match the specifications of good old British Leyland.

When I was putting the rubber around the glass, it seemed too simple and, well, loose. It wasn’t the snug fit I was expecting. At the time, I didn’t think much of it. It covered the edges, and I figured that when I clamped the left and right pillars together, it would self-center the glass and jam the rubber into the frame. I thought it did that, until Steve at the Sports Car Factory pointed out a gap right at the edge of the frame (click on the picture to see it in full size). You could actually stick something small through it. How is this even possible? Needless to say, the window leaks water like a proper strainer.

As if on cue, after I took a picture, Martin MacGregor called with some “helpful” advice on installing the rubber to the glass. A day late and a dollar short, but his advice made sense. He explained that the factory making these seals has workers cutting the rubber between 115” and 116”, then super gluing them together. The problem, he said, is that they often cut them too long—longer than 116”—which causes all sorts of problems when installing the windshield.

Martin suggested I cut the rubber at the seam, measure out 115”, and then cut and super glue it back together. It should be a snap fit, which mine definitely was not.

Even with that fix, I fear the windshield still isn’t wide enough to center properly when squeezing the pillars closed. My plan is to put clear silicone inside the pillar frame to build it up a bit on both sides to properly center the glass. This is just a plan; I’ll know more when I remove it for the second time after I get it back from its safety inspection.

Any suggestions would be truly welcomed here…

Spring Surgery: Bidding Farewell to the Clamp Catastrophe

 

The final item on my "Must Do" list was tackled on Sunday morning. My grand plan involved removing the spring and evicting that bracket clamp from the passenger side of the car’s front spring. Frankly, it looked like a cancerous growth that had no business being there. Even my garage agreed it was a disaster waiting to happen and would definitely raise eyebrows during a safety inspection.

Before getting too carried away with the whole spring removal ordeal, I figured I’d try just unscrewing all the bolts first. Maybe, just maybe, the clamp would fall off like a bad toupee. Armed with a socket, a few wrenches, needle-nose vice grips, and a screwdriver that could double as a crowbar, I set to work. It took 30 minutes of creative cursing and some wiggling, but success was mine!

With the wheel already off, I thought, "Why not give the front end a quick once-over?" A bit of grease in all the nipples, a glance here and there, and I discovered the brakes were in pristine condition, sporting new pads and a shiny, turned rotor. Feeling like a mechanical superhero, I decided to repeat the process on the driver's side.

Once completed, I drove the car onto the street and gave it the once-over from the front and back. No sign of a lean or any crookedness—victory! The car looked as straight as a ruler, and I was as proud as a peacock.

Finally, my wife, bless her heart, was kind enough to follow me in the MGB to The Sports Car Factory in my Volt. Picture this: me, beaming in my newly cancer-free car, back-up lights working, new windshield and windshield washers on the ready, and my wife, probably wondering how she got roped into this, trailing behind. We arrived, and I left the car to undergo the Ontario Safety Inspection, plus a thorough check-up for my own peace of mind.

As I returned home driving my Volt, I couldn't help but feel a mix of excitement and anxiety. Would the Master Mechanic of MGs find something I missed? Only time would tell. But for now, I could breathe easy knowing that the clamp, the bane of my spring’s existence, was no more. And so, with a triumphant grin, I walked away, ready for whatever automotive adventures awaited next.

On the way home, I decided to stop in Osgoode and treat my wife to lunch at the Red Dot Café. Chantal, ever the picture of health, ordered a salad with creamed potato soup. I, on the other hand, couldn't resist the Prime Rib Sandwich Dip with Sweet Potato Fries. It was the perfect end to a productive day, filled with good food and the satisfaction of a job well done.

More Pictures for Reference

MGB Windscreen Installation - Part 2

 

The task of installing the windscreen, while often dreaded, turned out to be more straightforward than expected. Here's a detailed walkthrough of my experience.

First, I grabbed the windscreen assembly and carefully slid the two rails into their slots on each side. I jiggled it a bit to align the front two bolts in the middle of the dash. Once they were aligned, I inserted and screwed in these two bolts, leaving about 1/4" of play.

Next, using the same plastic flat tool from Part 1, I slid the rubber seal into the correct position, flipping it over to seat on the car. With a flashlight inside the car, I inspected the holes to determine the best way to line them up. My plan was to attach the lower bolts on each side.

This part proved challenging. Instead of using a jig as suggested in various online guides, I asked a neighbor who was walking his dog to help. He pushed down on the driver’s side while I guided the direction with my left hand and screwed in the bolt with my right hand. After three attempts, I managed to screw in the first bolt. We then repeated this process on the passenger side, after which my neighbor continued on his walk. I did not tighten the bolts.

With the bottom two bolts in place, the windscreen moved like a lever. You can push or pull it to line up the holes. Surprisingly, I was able to screw in the top bolts easily past the dash edge, allowing me to continue with a wrench from the side. This was a part I had feared the most, but it turned out to be the easiest. Please note that in Part 1, I had put these bolts in many times and I also used a dab of anti-seize on the bolts. 

If you get out of the MGB and close the door, you'll notice some play backward and forward. Align the windscreen with the door to ensure they mate perfectly, then tighten the bottom bolts. Do not overtighten. Repeat this process on the other side. Once these bolts are secure, tighten the top two bolts.

Finally, I inspected my seal, which looked fabulous! Below are some reference pictures, especially showing the way the rubber seal sits with the rubber foot and the location of these bolts. Feel free to click on any image to view it full size. The last thing to do is seal the corner areas using silicone as in John Twist's Video: 213 MG Tech | Sealing MG Windscreens.

   

 

MGB Windscreen Installation Part 1

Introduction:

Instead of creating a video for this installation, I've chosen to discuss some of the challenges I faced and share my insights on potential solutions. While there are numerous excellent installation videos available, some of which I'll highlight below. I took a slightly different approach. I'll outline these unique steps with accompanying pictures, aiming to simplify your process and ensure a clean, straightforward, and frustration-free installation.

Noteworthy Installation Videos:

• MGB Roadster Windscreen Frame Removal and Glass Fitting: An in depth guide 
• by David Russell-Wilks
• MGB Front Windscreen Screen Replacement Re-Fit 4000 Subscriber Special 
• by David Russell-Wilks
• 213 MG Tech | Sealing MG Windscreens
  
• By John Twist at University Motors

The Windshield Adventure:

Removing the windshield was mostly straightforward, except for dealing with the top two bolts. These bolts, designed by the engineers at British Leyland, are placed awkwardly against the edge of the metal dash. To remove them, I had to use a 9/16" wrench between the dash and the sidewall. However, as the bolt reaches a certain point, the wrench becomes unusable because the bolt head aligns parallel with the steel dash. At this stage, you need to use your fingers underneath the dash, combined with some careful wrench maneuvers, to slowly turn the bolt until it comes off. This wasn't particularly difficult but did add about 15 minutes to the removal process. I can see it may be challenging to re-assemble later on (see Part 2). The videos mentioned above cover this process well.

Once the windshield was off the car, I had no trouble removing any of the screws from the windshield frame, except for one missing screw and one stripped thread on the frame bracket. Rust can easily form on these brackets, especially if there has been water leakage over the years. Here’s my recommended preparation for this scenario:

First, if the screws are rusted or difficult to remove, I suggest using an Impact Driver, as shown in the picture, to loosen them and avoid stripping, which would require drilling them out. Fortunately, I didn't need mine as the screws came out easily, but this isn’t always the case. Having extra screws on hand, both the small and tall ones is advisable. They are inexpensive and can be invaluable when needed.

Once all the screws are removed, you can gently pull the sides apart. I had to start mine by using a flathead screwdriver, inserted between the top and side frames, and gently turning it to apply pressure and separate the side frames from the top and bottom frames. Once started, I could wiggle them apart.

At this point, it's essential to clean the insides of the frames thoroughly. The bottom corner brackets and top brackets may be very rusty, the threads might be damaged from previous installations, or they might be in perfect condition. Mine were not. Luckily, I was able to get two good top brackets from The Sports Car Factory nearby to replace mine. Additionally, I wasn't completely satisfied with the bottom corner brackets' threads, so I recommend having a set of these on hand along with new screws. Ordering a few extra screws is also a good idea, just in case.

Parts Order List from Moss Motors:

1. 408-075 and 408-085 - Left and Right Top Rail to Pillar Brackets
2. 408-050 Left and Right pillar to Bottom Rail Elbow brackets
3. 4 x 408-055 Bracket to Pillar screws
4. 8 x 408-056 Short Screws
5. 6 x 408-057 Long Screws
6. 282-420 Windshield Glass Rubber
7. I Used this Windshield: 458-815 Tinted Original Style Windshield

I took the time to thoroughly clean both the insides and outsides of the frames. My frames had clear silicone, some type of putty, and rust on the brackets. I started by using a flathead screwdriver to scrape off the silicone and putty, then used a Dremel to further clean the tracks and remove as much rust as possible. Below, you can see some before and after pictures showcasing the results.

Before

After