MGB Windscreen Installation Part 1

Introduction:

Instead of creating a video for this installation, I've chosen to discuss some of the challenges I faced and share my insights on potential solutions. While there are numerous excellent installation videos available, some of which I'll highlight below. I took a slightly different approach. I'll outline these unique steps with accompanying pictures, aiming to simplify your process and ensure a clean, straightforward, and frustration-free installation.

Noteworthy Installation Videos:

• MGB Roadster Windscreen Frame Removal and Glass Fitting: An in depth guide 
• by David Russell-Wilks
• MGB Front Windscreen Screen Replacement Re-Fit 4000 Subscriber Special 
• by David Russell-Wilks
• 213 MG Tech | Sealing MG Windscreens
  
• By John Twist at University Motors

The Windshield Adventure:

Removing the windshield was mostly straightforward, except for dealing with the top two bolts. These bolts, designed by the engineers at British Leyland, are placed awkwardly against the edge of the metal dash. To remove them, I had to use a 9/16" wrench between the dash and the sidewall. However, as the bolt reaches a certain point, the wrench becomes unusable because the bolt head aligns parallel with the steel dash. At this stage, you need to use your fingers underneath the dash, combined with some careful wrench maneuvers, to slowly turn the bolt until it comes off. This wasn't particularly difficult but did add about 15 minutes to the removal process. I can see it may be challenging to re-assemble later on (see Part 2). The videos mentioned above cover this process well.

Once the windshield was off the car, I had no trouble removing any of the screws from the windshield frame, except for one missing screw and one stripped thread on the frame bracket. Rust can easily form on these brackets, especially if there has been water leakage over the years. Here’s my recommended preparation for this scenario:

First, if the screws are rusted or difficult to remove, I suggest using an Impact Driver, as shown in the picture, to loosen them and avoid stripping, which would require drilling them out. Fortunately, I didn't need mine as the screws came out easily, but this isn’t always the case. Having extra screws on hand, both the small and tall ones is advisable. They are inexpensive and can be invaluable when needed.

Once all the screws are removed, you can gently pull the sides apart. I had to start mine by using a flathead screwdriver, inserted between the top and side frames, and gently turning it to apply pressure and separate the side frames from the top and bottom frames. Once started, I could wiggle them apart.

At this point, it's essential to clean the insides of the frames thoroughly. The bottom corner brackets and top brackets may be very rusty, the threads might be damaged from previous installations, or they might be in perfect condition. Mine were not. Luckily, I was able to get two good top brackets from The Sports Car Factory nearby to replace mine. Additionally, I wasn't completely satisfied with the bottom corner brackets' threads, so I recommend having a set of these on hand along with new screws. Ordering a few extra screws is also a good idea, just in case.

Parts Order List from Moss Motors:

1. 408-075 and 408-085 - Left and Right Top Rail to Pillar Brackets
2. 408-050 Left and Right pillar to Bottom Rail Elbow brackets
3. 4 x 408-055 Bracket to Pillar screws
4. 8 x 408-056 Short Screws
5. 6 x 408-057 Long Screws
6. 282-420 Windshield Glass Rubber
7. I Used this Windshield: 458-815 Tinted Original Style Windshield

I took the time to thoroughly clean both the insides and outsides of the frames. My frames had clear silicone, some type of putty, and rust on the brackets. I started by using a flathead screwdriver to scrape off the silicone and putty, then used a Dremel to further clean the tracks and remove as much rust as possible. Below, you can see some before and after pictures showcasing the results.

Before

After